The Sou'wester
of the Pacific County Historical Society and Museum
Summer 2001, Volume XXXVI Number 2
Last modified on May 16th, 2004 / Contact the Museum / Web editing done by Brian Davis at bridavis@gte.net Top ,... Cover,... Page: 00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16,... Back
Sou'wester Banner
Volume XXXVI, Number 2                                                                          Summer, 2001
Early Pacific County
Pacific County Boundaries
A quarterly publication of the Pacific County Historical Society
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The
     Sou'wester
ISSN #0038-4984
Copyright, 2002, by the Pacific County Historical Society.  No portion of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the Society's Editorial Board.

The Sou'wester is a quarterly publication of the Pacific County Historical Society and Museum.  The Pacific County Historical Society is a non-profit 501(C)(3) organization in South Bend, Washington.
       1008 Robert Bush Drive
       P. 0. Box P
       South Bend, WA 98586-0039
       Website:  www.pacificcohistory.org
       E-mail:  museum@willapabay.org

In addition to the Sou'wester, the Society publishes a monthly newsletter for its members and operates the Pacific County Historical Society Museum in South Bend, Washington.

  • Annual membership fees include Society membership and a subscription to the Sou'wester:
    • Single                                        $25
    • Family and foreign memberships $35
    • International                              $40
    • Corporate                                 $100
    • Contributing                              $50
    • Benefactor                                $200
  • Pacific County Historical Society Board of Directors:
    • Ron Hatfield
    • Gerald Porter
    • Marion Davis
    • Sue Pattillo
  • Pacific County Historical Society Officers:
    • Vincent Shaudys, President
    • Robert Gerwig, Vice President
    • Elizabeth McCollum, Secretary
    • Bud Cuffel, Treasurer
The Pacific County Historical Society welcomes contributions of articles and/or photographs relating to Pacific County history and culture.  Although care will be taken in handling all submitted materials, we assume no legal liability or responsibility for loss or damage.  Materials accepted for publication may be edited for grammar, clarity, and/or length.

Design and electronic page layout by Charles B. Summers, South Bend, Washington.
The printed version of this is done by BookPrinters Network and VSR Graphics, Portland, Oregon.

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The
     Sou'wester
Summer Issue, 2001
  • Introduction: Page 2
  • Notes On Early Pacific County by Bob Bailey with excerpts from the writings of Frank L. Turner: Page 3
  • Pacific County Boundaries: Page 12
    • Text Summaries of boundary moves from 1851 to 1879: Page 13
    • Animated Gif of moving boundaries: Page 14
    • Notes from the Legislature & South Bend Journal: Page 15
    • References: Page 16
Cover Photograph:  Steamer General Miles at landing in Ilwaco, Circa 1880 (used with permission of the Oregon Historical Society, OrHi 25129 #543)
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Introduction
     February 4th, 2001, was the 150th anniversary of the establishment of Pacific County.  That this date passed bye relatively unnoticed should not be taken as a sign that the anniversary lacks significance.  On the contrary, many of the institutions and systems which we take for granted today were in their formative stage of development at that time.  Individual personalities and opinions played a much bigger role in local governance back then.  County responsibilities and powers were also much broader during the 19th century.  Unfortunately our understanding of those times is often foggy at best.  Surviving documentary evidence often raises more questions than it answers.  From the perspective of present day the task of separating fact from assumption in Pacific County’s earliest history is a difficult task.
     In this issue of The Sou’wester we have some assistance in the task from two of the best historians available, Frank Turner (1882-1961), and Bob Bailey (1918- ). On the occasion of Pacific County’s sesquicentennial I asked Bob to prepare an essay on the earliest county history.  In carrying out this task Bob recalled the newspaper stories written by Frank Turner for the Ilwaco Tribune during the 1950s.  Rarely reprinted since that time, Turner’s stories have stood the test of time remarkably well.  Bob proposed to use extensive quotes from selected Turner stories to create a narrative of the formative period from 1851 till 1890.
     Two of the contentious issues from Pacific County’s early years were courthouse location and boundary changes.  I like to tell students that the first Pacific County Courthouse was actually a black bag full of books and papers.  Although the bag’s exact color is not a matter of record, we do know that the county government function was remarkably portable compared to today.  The Commissioners Court, as it was known back then, could and did meet wherever convenient for the elected officials.  Courthouse locations designated by the Territorial Legislature were honored when possible.
     County boundaries in Washington underwent frequent revision during territorial days.  Most of the changes would have mattered little to the early white settlers, except at tax time.
Frank Turner, courtesy of the Turner-Murfin familes (PCHS #2001.55).
White residents could get fairly upset by a visit from the sheriff-tax collector (one job) of two different counties in one year.  The Indians must have looked on all this fuss about property lines and boundaries as so much foolishness.  The local Natives clearly understood commerce and ownership, however, and the changes in their world during the century were certainly profound.
     I know that some people probably consider boundary changes and courthouse locations merely historical trivia.  I would suggest, however, that this history reflects broader economic changes in Pacific County during the 19th century.  Early development of the Columbia River salmon fishery as well as several overly optimistic real estate developments along the River help to explain why the seat of government rested in several south county locations from 1851 until late in the Century.  Rapid development of the forest products industry by outside investors along with related population growth in the north part of the county during the 1880s and 90s made a move to South Bend in 1892 inevitable, not just an act of piracy.  In fact the whole courthouse removal story, long a favorite piece of local folklore, is overdue for factual reexamination.  But that, as they say, is another story.
     I would especially like to thank the Murfin Family of Ilwaco and scholar Carol Kammen for their special assistance in preparing this issue.
Bruce Weilepp, Director
Pacific County Historical Society Museum
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Notes On Early Pacific County
By Bob Bailey
          with excerpts from the writings of
          Frank L.Turner, pioneer, editor, and historian
     The early history of Pacific County has been written and rewritten, told and retold, so many times by pioneers and historians that it seems like old hat to do so again.  Yet, we would be remiss if we allowed the 150th anniversary of the establishment of Pacific County in Oregon Territory, to go by without repeating some of its historic beginnings.
     Pacific County was the third county formed north of the Columbia River in Oregon Territory in what later would become the Territory and the State of Washington.  It was authorized on February 4, 1851, by the Oregon Territorial Legislature.
     Few, if any, can surpass the late Frank Turner of Ilwaco as a researcher and writer of early Pacific County history.  Excerpts from Turner’s writings make a good summation on county beginnings and a serve as a recognition to Turner himself.  In fact we want to let Frank Turner write our 150th anniversary story.
     Many are too young or possibly were not readers of The Tribune at Ilwaco at that time, and have not read Frank Turner’s historical writings, under the title “Auld Lang Syne,” which appeared in the columns of that newspaper in the mid-1900s and reflected his great interest and research as to county beginnings as well as stories of pioneer families and institutions in the peninsula area.  His stories of shipwrecks in the area provide graphic and interesting stories of the lower Columbia and Peninsula area. His columns often were filled with stories submitted by other pioneers.
     His writings are largely centered about the Long Beach peninsula and lower Columbia River region but it must be remembered that in the early days of Pacific county, that area was the center of community development, commerce and political activity.
     The center of Pacific county activity away from the peninsula was gradual and seemed officially and politically sanctioned when voters selected South Bend over Oysterville as county seat in 1892.

Clara Case Turner and Frank, courtesy of
the Turner-Murfin family (PCHS #2001.55).
About Frank Turner
     Frank Turner himself came from a pioneer family.  His parents, Mr. and Mrs. J. H. Turner, came to Washington Territory in 1871, settling at Bay Center in 1877.
     His father, J. H. Turner, was sheriff of Pacific county in territorial days from 1884 to 1890, and then was the first sheriff elected in Pacific county after Washington became a state, serving a two-year term 1890 to 1892.
      Frank was born at Riverside [near present Raymond].  The family, living at Bay Center, moved to Oysterville during his father’s years as sheriff, later moving to South Bend.
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Mr. and Mrs. Dick Murfin accepting an award from the state newspaper association on behalf of Frank
Turner.  The award recognized Frank Turner's contributions to preserving history (PCHS #2001.55).
     Frank graduated from South Bend High School, attended the University of Puget Sound and the University of Washington and briefly taught school.  He was called back to South Bend on the death of his father, then South Bend postmaster, in 1905.  Local newspapers record that “Republicans were anxious to fill the postal vacancy with a person agreeable to both factions of the party.”  Frank Turner was chosen and served the remaining two years of his father’s term and a four-year term of his own.
     He married in 1911 to Clara Case, daughter of Raymond lumberman, E. E. Case.  He served as Raymond postmaster for four years, 1912 to 1916, after which he was engaged in the lumber business with his father-in-law.  In 1924 he became owner, publisher and editor of the North Beach Tribune, later The Tribune, at Ilwaco.  He served in this capacity until 1942 when he turned the newspaper over to his son-in-law and daughter, Dick and Martha Murfin.
     It was in his “retirement” (perhaps he had more free time to do what he loved to do) that he assembled and published so many of his articles on early county and Peninsula events.
     Turner probably never enjoyed anything as much as being selected first curator for the newly established Fort Columbia Historical State Park near Chinook.  He worked enthusiastically and tirelessly with individuals and organizations and assembled a very creditable exhibit of artifacts and records of early Pacific county in one of the houses at the Park which had been set aside for that purpose.  He served several years in this capacity until ill health forced his retirement.
     He passed away in February 1961, at the age of 79.  He was an active participant in community and church affairs, a member of the Pacific County Pioneers Association, and was a charter member of the Pacific County Historical Society.
     Frank reveled in writing stories of the origins of Pacific county during its 100th anniversary year in 1951 and the centennial of Washington Territory in 1953.  He would have had a field day in retelling and reprinting some of these stories at the 150th birthday of Pacific county in 2001.
     The following information and remarks were collected from writings by Frank Turner himself, and extended direct quotations from his work are delineated by indented text.  They represent not one complete story, but in many cases bits and pieces written from several articles written by Turner on the same subject, mostly appearing in The Tribune, and with the approval and cooperation of his son-in-law and daughter—Mr. and Mrs. Dick Murfin.  Some quotations come from Turner’s writing in the 1953 Yearbook of the Associations of County Commissioners and County Engineers with their approval.
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Lewis and Clark
     Turner was an avid student of the Lewis and Clark expedition, especially of their arrival and winter in the lower Columbia river area near Chinook and at Fort Clatsop.  He wrote many articles on this aspect of the expedition.  It is interesting to note one of his conclusions, first quoting a letter from President Thomas Jefferson to the great explorers as to the object of their mission:  “The object of your mission is to explore the Missouri River, and such principal streams of it, as by its course and communication with the waters of the Pacific Ocean, may offer the most direct and water communication across the continent for the purpose of commerce.”
     Turner says:  “Washington historians tend to skip the story of the Lewis and Clark encampment and the Oregon historians play up Fort Clatsop (a mere winter camp) and a small salt-boiling outpost at Seaside.  One does not blame them, but skipping over the ‘attainment of their objective’ at Point Chinook is like skipping Plymouth Rock on Cape Cod as a Pilgrim landing place.”
Early Days
     In June 1844, the area north of the Columbia, which is now in the State of Washington, was established as Vancouver County by the Oregon Provisional Government.  One and one-half years later, in December 1845, the area west of the Cascades, except for a small sector east of the Cowlitz river in southwestern Washington was taken from Vancouver County and named Lewis County.  Later, in 1845, Vancouver County was renamed Clark County.  These two counties existed when Oregon became a territory in August, 1848.
     In December 1850, thirty-five citizens living near the Washington side of the mouth of the Columbia, petitioned the Oregon Territorial Legislature to establish a new county named Pacific in the southwest corner and that its county seat be Pacific City.
     Turner says:  “It was more than likely done at the instance of the promoters of the Pacific City townsite, and the name was evidently their choice.”
     Turner quotes the Oregon Spectator of February 13, 1851, shortly after Pacific County was authorized, that Pacific City had about 75 people.
  • Turner writes:
    • Pacific County, which includes the area of discovery and exploration (Lewis and Clark) at the mouth of the Columbia, was set off from Lewis County by act of the legislature of Oregon Territory, approved by the Assembly on February 3, 1851, and approved by the Council on the next day, February 4, 1851.  The land limit started at Cape Disappointment and was ordered to run ‘northerly along the coast for 25 miles, thence due east 30 miles, thence due south to the Columbia river, thence down the middle of said river to the place of beginning.’  It ordered the first election to be held at Pacific City and named that city as ‘seat of justice’ for the new county.
    • Pacific City no longer exists.  In fact its existence was doomed within a year [after the Oregon legislature named it county seat] by another act, or order, signed in Washington, D. C., in February 1852, making Cape Disappointment a military reservation of the United States and the region involved included the site of Pacific City.
Early Records
  • Turner writes:
    • The first entries now on record in the minutes of Pacific County were made in the summer of 1852, and were headed ‘Pacific County, Oregon Territory.’  The heading does not signify the place of the first meeting, but it was apparently at Chinookville near the present Fort Columbia Historical State Park.  The date was August 31, 1852, and its officers were presumably elected in the preceding June, when Job Lamley, first sheriff, reports sixteen votes cast.
    • The accounts of Sheriff Job Lamley, apparently written up in 1852 by Henry Fiester, indicate there had been an assessment made for the year 1851.  With the entry ‘Taxes Due, $634.25.’  This item and a further reference to ‘lost records of the year 1851’ in the meeting of September 6, 1852, indicates there was some kind of county organization set up in the previous year.
    • In the August 31, 1852 session, the commissioners were John Meldrum, Washington Hall and Cornelius White, and the clerk was Henry Fiester, who entered the records.  First business was consideration of a proposed road from Chinookville by way of the McCarty Portage to Bear River on Shoalwater Bay.  Viewers appointed for the road project were John Edmonds Pickernell, William McGonigle and Job Lamley.  The surveyor was George Dawson.  From later records it is known that they did not agree on the route and on August 8, 1854, a new set of viewers were appointed.
    • At the fall session in 1852, the date being September, the commissioners decided that the assessed valuation of Pacific Steam Mill [Pacific City] at $12,000 was too high.  They reduced it to $7,500.  There was a meeting on December 6, 1852, that was definitely headed ‘Pacific City, Pacific County’ and at that session the commissioners arranged for a ‘Cathlamet precinct’ in addition to others.
    • There is also recorded reason for thinking that John Scudder was assessor in 1851, and J. M. Robertson of Pacific City was apparently the clerk as he signs certain papers on July 15, 1852, before Henry Fiester took over whatever records there might have been.
    • The Job Lamley accounts for the year 1852 indicate the assessment was on a four mill basis and the account for the year was $220.  J. D. Holman of Pacific City was the county treasurer.
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A modern U.S.G.S. topographic map with the rough boundaries of Pacific City added.
 Compare this to the nice rectangular plat map on page 9.
Washington Territory
  • Turner writes:
    • After an apparent lapse in the meetings of the Pacific County commissioners of nearly two years, during which time Washington had been set off as a Territory, a meeting was held on August 8, 1854, the heading being ‘Chinook, County of Pacific, Territory of Washington.’
    • George T. Eastabrook was listed as president and Daniel Wilson as commissioner.  New viewers were appointed for the new Chinook to Shoalwater Bay road, W. Hall, A. W. Bunnell and Jos. Brown being named.  A license for a grocery store was fixed at $50.00, and George Dawson signed as clerk.
    • On the following two days, P. J. McGowan’s name was added to the list of commissioners and a petition was granted to survey a road from J. D. Holman’s [Ilwaco] to the Narcottie [sic] portage.
    • The activities of county government apparently were largely transferred to Chinookville on the Columbia on the demise of Pacific City about the time that Washington became a territory [1853].  In any event some meetings were held there and a court session presided over by Judge Victor Munroe is definitely located there by the early historian, James G. Swan.
    • There may have been a difference of opinion as to the place of meetings for on the 4th and 5th of December, 1854, a meeting was attempted at Chinook, with Daniel Wilson, commissioner, George Dawson, clerk, and George Bower, sheriff, in attendance, but failing to gain a quorum, no business was transacted.
    • A meeting was held on March 6, 1855, headed ‘J. D. Holman School House, Baker’s Bay.’ Present were George T. Eastabrook, presiding, John Crellin, commissioner; George Dawson, clerk, and John Briscoe, deputy sheriff.  No doubt this was on the present site of Ilwaco to which Holman had moved from Pacific City, the site of which had been included in the government military reservation by purchase, in 1852.
    • Much routine business with reference to settlement of estates was transacted but the most striking entry was ‘Ordered [by the Territorial Legislature] that a special election be held on the second Monday in May, 1855, for the purpose of locating the county seat.’
    • Evidently the election decided in favor of Oysterville as the next entry was headed ‘Oysterville, County Seat, Shoalwater Bay, W. T., June 4, 1855. Present were George T. Eastabrook and George Crellin, commissioners, John Briscoe, deputy sheriff, and H. K. Stevens, clerk.
    • From that time on until a certain raid in February, 1893, Oysterville remained the county seat and regular meetings were recorded.
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The original plat for Chinookville, Pacific County, Washington Territory.  Found
in the first Pacific County deed book, this plat is the surviving record of Washington
Hall's attempt to claim part of the existing Indian village at Chinook.
County Seats
  • Turner writes:
    • County seat towns in Pacific county have been fairly numerous considering the size of the county.  Old records have brought to light that extinct Pacific City served as the original ‘seat of justice.’  Afterward there was Chinookville, Oysterville and South Bend.  One meeting of the county commissioners was even held on the site of present Ilwaco, the date being early 1855.  This is likely the school house Holman built in his back yard in Ilwaco after his removal from Pacific City.
John Briscoe, Deputy Sherriff (Ken Bale collection).
    • Bruceville, afterward called Bruceport, once was designated a county seat by the territorial legislature, April 14, 1854.  This will seem strange, but it seems stranger yet that Bruceville was the county seat, not of Pacific, but of Chehalis, now known as Grays Harbor County.  Not only was Bruceville the county seat according to Ed Van Syckle’s story of Grays Harbor county published in the 1953 Centennial edition of the Yearbook of the Washington State Associations of County Commissioners and Engineers but at least five of the ten county officials named were residents of Bruceville and vicinity indicating that it was the principal settlement and oystering the principal business in the entire area at that time.
    • George Watkins, John Vail, and John Brady were named commissioners.  At their first meeting, August 5, 1854, they established a North River voting precinct at the residence of Almoran Smith, and Bruceville precinct at the store of Coon and Woodard.
     The third resolution provided that “the southern line of Chehalis county be established from Cape Shoalwater to Stony Point below the residence of C. J. W. Russell until better authority to remove it.”
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County Boundaries
     Pacific County’s boundaries have been altered many times over the years.  A detailed story on boundaries will appear elsewhere in this issue of The Sou’Wester.
     Two of most drastic boundary changes were made to the three-year old county by the first legislature of Washington Territory in 1854.  In March and April of that year, along with others, the counties of Wahkiakum and Chehalis (later Grays Harbor) were formed.  Wahkiakum county took over a great portion of the southeast area that had been in Pacific county, and as told above, Chehalis county took over a great deal of Shoalwater Bay, most of which had never clearly been defined.
     This southern alignment of Chehalis county resulted not only in a large number of Shoalwater Bay residents holding elective and appointive positions in Chehalis county, but in several cases early residents of the Willapa Valley represented Chehalis county in the territorial legislature.  This situation was ended when the 1860 legislature drew boundary lines placing Shoalwater Bay in Pacific County, replacing Bruceport as county seat of Chehalis county, and ordered an election at the next general election for voters of Pacific county to choose its county seat from ‘two or more locations.’
     While the legislative act exists on the statute books, a diligent search of the records has failed to reveal any such election (Now they have; please see page 16 of the Summer 2003 Sou'wester - Web Editor).  Like Frank Turner wrote about the selection of Oysterville in 1855 and being unable to find the vote totals “that Oysterville must have won,” if such an election was held in 1860, it must be presumed that Oysterville won again because it remained the county seat until the election of 1892 which transferred it to South Bend.

Plat map for White's Pacific City.  Found in the collection of the Huntington
Library, and published for the first time here with their kind permission.
Pacific City
  • Turner writes:
    • Early Settlers in Baker’s and Willapa Bay Region came first to Pacific City
    • Students of the origin of the settlement of Pacific County, including the Baker’s Bay and Willapa Bay regions, are likely to find that Pacific City, the ghost settlement that lasted only a few years after its inception in 1849 and 1850, had a lot to do with it.
    • Pacific City was located at the time about a mile from the present site of Ilwaco on Baker’s Bay in the direction of Fort Canby, and is reported to have been started by the promotional activities of Dr. Elijah White in 1849, in the hope that it would become a great port city at the mouth of the Columbia.  White first became familiar with the country in 1837 while on his way to join the Methodist mission [as a doctor] in the Willamette Valley from which he resigned after three years.
    • White seems to have been a misfit in a mission enterprise but a good promoter for Northwest settlement.  As soon as he left the mission he went to New York and came back in 1842 as the head of the first sizeable body of emigrants to arrive in Oregon, 112 persons.  He is thought to have followed this occupation for several years, and in the back of his mind was the idea of founding the beginnings of a large port city at the mouth of the Columbia.
    • He arrived at the Pacific City site in 1849 with a party, many of whom were from Ithaca, New York, his hometown.  Ed Loomis, an early pioneer, and elder brother of L. A. Loomis, was in the party; Charles Stuart, grandfather of R. B. Taylor of Ilwaco and C. J. W. Russell, who figured in the founding of the oyster industry at Bruceport, all three later becoming residents of the Shoalwater Bay region.
    • J. D. Holman of Oregon City was induced to invest in the enterprise and he built a hotel said to cost close to $30,000.  A letter bearing the date, January 26, 1850, reports that ‘A large company is forming to build a town immediately adjoining Cape Disappointment, with steam mill, steam boat, etc.  This is adjoining the point which the government will first fortify on the north side of the Columbia at the entrance from the ocean.
    • Besides the hotel, Pacific City had a sawmill operated by Ed Loomis and others.  Historians who know Puget Sound history better than they do the Columbia River, sometimes saw that Henry Yesler of Seattle operated “the first steam sawmill in the Territory of Washington in 1853.”  However, Ed Loomis sawed lumber at Pacific City three years before that, and was probably getting ready to go out of business by the time Henry Yesler was ready to make his first cut.
    • Very likely the Ed Loomis and Henry Yesler boilers both came ‘round the Horn’ together in the first shipment of steam boilers to the Pacific Northwest from England.
    • L. E. Loomis says he was told by his uncle, Ed Loomis that they put out a huge stack of heavy plank, hoping to sell them to build streets in the gold mining center of San Francisco.  They mostly rotted for lack of available transportation. The town was thought to have a population of 500 persons.
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Astoria “Worried?”
  • Turner writes:
    • That the activities of the new city perturbed the citizens of Astoria at the time is indicated by a ‘Memorial of Citizens of Astoria protesting against a proposed removal of distribution post office and port of entry from Astoria to Pacific City, 1850.
    • The post office was established March 6, 1851.  The two-page assessment roll of Pacific City, O. T., for the first year of its creation in 1851, is said to be reposing in the safe of the Oregon Historical Association.
Dr. Elijah White, Courtesy of Oregon
Historical Society (OrHi 728, #1114).
    • Pacific City started with a sawmill, fine hotel, post office and county seat.  The plans were nipped in the bud when the United States government decided to confiscate Cape Disappointment and its environs for military purposes, including the site of Pacific City.  This took place just one full year, in February, 1852, after Pacific county was organized and Pacific City named county seat.  Ten years passed before the government built installations and manned the area with soldiers, but Pacific City had no future.
    • Dr. White left and J. D. Holman took over, stayed and established a donation land claim embracing the western portion of the present site of Ilwaco and the North Beach Addition to Ilwaco which includes the beach area now called “The Willows” and the land around Holman Station now known as Holman Road.
    • Attributed to the Holman family was the establishment of a school there in 1853 and later activities in promoting Ilwaco and beach areas as a summer resort.  He had a set of cabins and many of the Portland visitors pitched their tents in Ilwaco and walked out over the trails on excursions to the ocean beach.  In those days ocean beach usually called ‘the weather beach’ was considered too much exposed for home building.
    • Finally some of the more venturesome built out along the beach.  Stout and Tinker developed their hotels and townsites and Ilwaco became the point of debarkation for transfer of passengers and freight from the excursion steamers to the horse-drawn stages and freight wagons of the 1880s.
    • Ed Loomis plugged the flues of the boiler after dismantling the mill, and floated the boiler down Tarlett Slough to Willapa Bay.  A start was made for a mill structure near Nahcotta but was abandoned when there came news of a gold strike in Northern Idaho in 1855.
    • Charles J. W. Russell moved to Bruceport becoming an early oysterman and trader.  Charles Stewart went with him. Ed Loomis, who ran the sawmill, moved to Oysterville and became a builder of homes and oyster sloops.  Henry Fiester and John Meldrum settled on donation land claims as John Edmonds and James Scarborough had done before them.  Washington Hall helped build up another settlement at Chinookville.
    • In 1858, a Coast Survey reports only two or three houses and a sawmill at Pacific City.
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The “Formative” Fifties
     The 1850s saw the most dramatic happenings in Pacific County development as well as elsewhere. Starting in 1849-50, the promotion of Pacific City drew many to the area and drew the attention of many more.  The organization of Pacific County in 1851 was another high point.
     Probably the most important influence in the development of the region and the county was the passage in 1850 of the Donation Land Claims Act in which each person in the Territory prior to 1850 could claim 360 acres of land, 620 if married.  Later provisions gave men coming after 1850, 160 acres, 320 if married.
     The Donation Land Claims act thus encouraged married couples to settle on the lands, bringing many wives and families to the area.  Before the end of the 50s, Donation Land claims (many with wives) speckled the area from Willapa Valley to the Peninsula.  Settlement was on its way.
First Women
  • Turner writes:
    • There were not many white women in the coast country prior to 1853, when there became a considerable influx of people with families.  It was said the first white woman was the wife of Capt. Fiester, who arrived in 1850, their claim being adjacent to the Wallicut River.  Another white woman who came along no doubt was Mrs. J. D. Holman of Pacific City.
    • It is pretty well established by those who know that Frederick V. Holman, who became a prominent attorney in Oregon, was the first child of white parents born in this area.  The exact date is not at hand, but it was in 1852, within a year of the building of the hotel at Pacific City by his father.
    • However before these births there were a number whose fathers were white and mothers Indian.  The dates were not always recorded but they attended early schools and became part and parcel of community life.
Bruceport and Oysterville
  • Turner writes:
    • Oystering on Shoalwater Bay (now known as Willapa Harbor) having developed as the principle cash crop of the area in 1851.  The exiled citizens of Pacific City and others who trekked across the portages from the Columbia River, joined with sailors from the San Francisco coastal vessels in oyster gathering at Bruceport and Oysterville.”  There is the story of the burning of the schooner Robert Bruce by a demented cook after he had administered laudanum to the sailors in their coffee in late 1851.  The sailors, whose lives were saved ay a settler, were stranded and went to work at oystering in the vicinity that is now known as Bruceport.
    • Oysterville, first settled by R. H. Espy and I. A. Clark in 1854 because of the oysters in that location, attracted men from Pacific City, and by a vote of the people in May, 1855, was designated as the county seat.  The county seat-oyster gathering town prospered and became the educational, cultural and religious center of the county.  Public education began about 1863.  A church was built about ten years later, the lumber coming from a small mill established in South Bend.  The first courthouse owned by the county was built about 1876.
    • By the year 1890, the economy of Pacific County was undergoing a shift from that of the seashore, bays and rivers with their tourists, oysters and fish, to the established payrolls of the lumbering industry.  Coastal schooners carried lumber to San Francisco and Northern Pacific rail lines were extended to South Bend.  The town was booming and many boomers were on hand to push it along.  They looked with covetous eyes at the county seat at Oysterville and in November, 1892, the election results showed 984 for South Bend and 482 favorable to Oysterville.
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A portion of the original plat for Oysterville found in the first deed book for Pacific County and
reproduced here with assistance from the Pacific County Auditor and Washington State Archives.
  • Sources
    • Many “Auld Lang Syne” columns written by Turner and appearing in The Tribune during 1949-55.
    • 1953 Yearbook of the Associations of County Commissioners and Engineers in Pacific County article written by Turner.
    • Sou’Wester, Autumn, 1981, on Donation Land Claims, by Larry Weathers.
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Pacific County Boundaries and Timeline

     Editor’s Note:  While preparing preceeding early County history for publication, it became apparent that the numerous boundary changes made during the 19th Century were hard to describe in words.  Consequently, we present here a series of maps, drawn to scale, depicting the changes over time as accurately as possible.  Modern place names and communities are also shown for reference.  We found some discrepancies in the worded legal descriptions from state law.  This, combined with the sketchy surveys and maps from the period make our reconstruction of the boundaries less precise than they may appear.  Nevertheless, we hope the reader can gain some idea of how the early white settlers conceived of their political world.

  • 1843  Provisional Government of Oregon established Twality and Clackamas Districts
  • 1844  Districts limited to south of the Columbia river
  • 1845  Vancouver County all area north of Columbia river
  • 1845  Lewis County created from the western portion of Vancouver county
  • 1846  Treaty with Great Britain established northern boundaries of counties
  • 1849  Oregon Territory formed
  • 1849  Vancouver renamed Clark county
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  • 1851
    • Oregon Territory Legislature established Pacific County (out of Lewis).  The county seat of Pacific County was established as Pacific City near present-day Ilwaco.
  • 1852
    • Oregon Territory Legislature established Thurston County (south boundary Pacific County).
  • 1853
    • Oregon Territory Legislature revised Thurston County boundaries.
  • 1853
    • Washington Territory formed.
  • 1854
    • WT legislature established eastern boundary of Pacific County (Jim Crow Mountain).
  • 1854
    • Chehalis county formed north of Pacific County.  D.K. Whelan residence in Bruceport established as first county seat.
  • 1854
    • Wahkiakum County formed.  County seat Cathlamet.
  • 1860
    • North boundary Pacific County moved to corner Sec 19 and 30 T  15/R11.
  • 1860
    • South border of Chehalis moved north.
  • 1867
    • County boundaries defined to clear up errors.
  • 1869
    • Redefined county boundaries.  Lewis begins at NE corner Pacific County, Wahkiakum begins SW corner Pacific County.
  • 1873
    • Changed north boundary Pacific County to corner of Section #5.
  • 1879
    • East boundary Pacific County changed.  Begin Columbia river between Ranges 8 and 9 north along that line to north boundary of T10N, then east to line between Ranges 6 and 7.
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In this animated gif, eight periods are shown.
The first seven periods are on a 2 seconds pause,
and the last period is a 4 second pause.
If the gif stops looping, click <Reload> on your browser.
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  • 1915 Washington State Legislature Ch77/250.  Name of Chehalis County changed to Grays Harbor County.
  • 1925 Washington State Legislature.  “Boundary Bill” of Senator Norman moved coastal county boundaries 3 miles west.
  • South Bend Journal 2/10/1893.  Talk of dividing Pacific county and annexing to Wahkiakum.
  • South Bend Journal 4/13/1894.  Still talk of annexing of part of Pacific County to Wahkiakum.
  • South Bend Journal 4/30/1920.  Move to consolidate Wahkiakum and Pacific counties.
  • South Bend Journal 9/23/1921.  Wahkiakum County courthouse burned. Editor suggests counties be joined.
  • South Bend Journal 8/18/1922.  North Cove and Tokeland want to be part of Grays Harbor County.
  • South Bend Journal 1/18/1924.  Petition from North Cove and Tokeland to be part of Grays Harbor County.
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  • References:
    • Holman, Frederick 1910, “Oregon Counties”, Oregon Historical Quarterly, Vol.11 No.1, p.1
    • Statutes Territory of Washington
    • Statutes Washington State
    • Newspapers
    • The Evolution of Washington Counties, by Newton Carl Abbott and Fred E. Carver.  Revision Two, published by the Yakima Valley Genealogical Society and Klickitat County Historical Society, 2000.  Several copies available in the Pacific County Historical Society Museum store.
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Pacific House, Oysterville, Washington.  This famous photo from the
1880s is usually identified as a Superior Court session.  Obviously court
sessions were a popular spectator sport.  PCHS #10-8-87 (6).
.  end of file
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